In a nutshell
When you think of a walk along a river in London, the path of the Thames probably springs to mind. But instead, this route follows the course of the river Fleet, which for more than 250 years has been mostly buried beneath the streets.Londoners once enjoyed five bridges over the Fleet and it was an important river for industry, but by the 13th century pollution levels earned it the nickname “the stinking river”.
In 1766, following many attempts to restore the river to its former condition, it was confined underground, becoming a lost waterway. Although you won’t be able to see it, this linear walk loosely follows the Fleet’s subterranean course, from Fleet Street, through King’s Cross, past Camden Town and up on to Hampstead Heath. You could cut the walk short at King’s Cross, reducing it to a more manageable three miles.
Why it’s special
There’s plenty to discover on this ambitious route, from narrow Victorian alleys to the vast open heath; from popular tourist attractions to hidden corners of the capital that you wouldn’t normally come across.Full of history, this route takes you past Samuel Pepys’s birthplace, through Hanging Sword Alley, a notorious spot for 18th century muggers, and past the house of writer Dr Samuel Johnson. You’ll also walk down Fitzroy Road, where Sylvia Plath and Ted Hughes rented a flat at number 23 in the 1960s.
You will walk straight through the British Museum, the first national public museum in the world, past the British Library, St Pancras International railway station, and a row of antique dealers. You can then enjoy a stretch along Regent’s Canal to Camden Lock, walking through the vibrant market to continue along the towpath.
The walk up Primrose Hill may test your legs, but climbing to the top is well worth it for the amazing views of central London spread out before you.
You then head down the other side, through Belsize Park and on to Hampstead Heath, where you have another climb up to the brow of Parliament Hill, undoubtedly one of the best places to enjoy views out over London. As you approach the end of this walk, you cross a section of the river Fleet flowing above ground, bringing your focus back to this hidden river and its significance to this walk.
Reward yourself
You’ll pass the tiny Seven Stars pub in Holborn. Dating from 1602, this is one of the few buildings that survived the great fire of the city in 1666.At the end of the route is The Flask, a Hampstead institution with a great menu.