If you come from Geneva, Valmorel is the first ski resort you reach in the Tarentaise valley in France’s Savoie region. But this intimate little village is often overlooked by British skiers in their rush towards the bigger Trois Vallées and Paradiski resorts. It’s the main village of the Grand Domaine ski area, which includes beginner slopes in the hamlet of Doucy-Combelouvière. Ski to the Col de la Madeleine – one of the Tour de France’s toughest climbs – and you end up in the linked resort of Saint-François-Longchamp in the Maurienne valley.
Why try it?
Created in 1976 at 1,400m, Valmorel is one of the few purpose-built resorts in France that’s not a concrete eyesore. Learning from earlier mistakes, planners stuck to classic Savoyard design: low-rise wooden buildings and sloping slate roofs. Most accommodation is close to the lifts, and free eco-shuttle buses connect outlying hamlets. Le Bourg, the pedestrianised high street, is full of shops, restaurants and bars. It’s friendly, relaxed, predominantly French and very family-focused. Club Piou-Piou in the centre takes children from 18 months to six years, and there’s a family snowzone with snow park, picnic areas and pedestrian access.
Mountain lowdown
It’s blue and green heaven for beginners and low intermediates, with mainly wide motorway runs from 2,030m in Valmorel (and up to 2,300m in Saint-François-Longchamp). Novices have six areas, including two just for children. There are snow parks graded from green to black, including the very tricky black Combe du Riondet snowcross. Off-piste skiers wanting a challenge can hire a guide to tackle the Massif de la Lauzière, which is gaining a reputation among expert skiers who want a mountainside pretty much to themselves.
There’s no shortage of other activities. Hurtle down the slopes on an airboard (head first on short fat lilo), a snowskate (skateboard on snow) or in a snake gliss (train of toboggans). Go for a snowshoe trek through the forest near L’Aigle Blanc, or try paragliding on skis on a tandem flight with Here We Go Parapente. If that all sounds too energetic, enjoy a massage, sauna or hammam (from €14) at the Valmoforme spa.
Après any good?
For a small village, Valmorel has a decent choice of bars in Le Bourg. Neighbours La Source, Le Petit Savoyard and Le Petit Prince all have terraces for the 4pm crowd, many of whom return in the evening. Le Perce-Neige has snuggly seats outside huddled around heaters. The buzziest is Jimbo Lolo
Where to eat
Ski Roc in Le Bourg is one of the best and busiest restaurants in the village. It serves the usual Savoyard dishes, but with some innovative touches – a tartiflette ravioli, for one. It has sister restaurant at the top of the Altispace chairlift, Les Voiles du Nant, which does excellent burgers. And L’Altipiano, at the top of the Pierrafort cable car, does a great reblochonnade – a version of tartiflette with melted reblochon cheese and ham.
Where to stay
La Grange aux Fées is a stylish new self-catering residence beside the Lanchettes chairlift, with warm wood and exposed stone interiors, plus an indoor pool and hot tubs (seven nights from £224pp including Eurotunnel crossing with peakretreats.co.uk). Valmorel’s only hotel is the cosy Hotel du Bourg (seven nights from £393pp including Eurotunnel crossing), whose new owner is updating its 1970s decor.
The nitty gritty
Valmorel has 165km of pistes; 50 lifts; highest altitude 2,550m.
Good for families, authentic French charm, value, tranquillity
Lift pass adult £164 a week; child £107
Beer €5.70
Runs 14 green, 25 blue, 11 red, 5 black
Limitations Although Valmorel’s naturally cold climate keeps the snow cannons busy, there are quite a few icy and patchy pistes, unless there’s been a huge snowfall.
Getting there Fly or take the Eurostar to Geneva, two hours away; the nearest railway station to Valmorel is Moûtiers.
